// October 23rd, 2009 // 11 Comments » // family, storytelling
Since it’s Fall, I thought it was time to start baking. Growing up there was always a cake or pie in the house but especially in the Fall and through the holidays.
EXCURSUS
My mother is an exceptional cook and was an exceptional baker. After my parents lived in Capetown with Katie, a cook who lived in, she lost her touch. We discovered this at a huge holiday dinner with many, many guests when they had moved to Little Rock. After dinner, I went into the kitchen to help bring out the dazzling offering of cakes. We sliced the first and the knife didn’t glide through. A cook knows this does not bode well for the texture of certain cakes. One by one, through caramel, jam, coconut and pound cakes we cut to find assortments of rubber, cornbread and gelee’. She was visibly shaken. Unable to gather herself, I suggested we serve the sweet potato pies which were brought by a guest. She hasn’t rarely baked a cake since. That was 1989.
AND WE’RE BACK…
While I was in Atlanta recently I bought the ingredients and my mother and I went into the kitchen to bake Grandma Albirda’s Whiskey Cake which is rich in spices, pecans, molasses, family memories and love.
One might underestimate what is required to bring such goodness to the family table, but as I stood there examing each and every single pecan (while Mama was examining me and my work) which went into that cake to ensure there were no stray pieces of hulls or any pecans that were dry, I no longer take this deliciousness lightly.
My great-grandmother, "Birda" as her grandchildren called her, used to make these cakes every year and ship one to each of her children’s families and with them love and lessons and memories of their childhood in Vicksburg. My mother, great lover and champion of tradition that she is, continues the tradition. (She used to ship these cakes to her parents, sister and brothers.) I joined her in this endeavor so as to mitigate against any non-cakelike textures by serving as her talisman of sorts.
The cake must be made at least a month before it is to be eaten so that the Jack Daniels sugar syrup can be poured on weekly and soak in. One might argue that anything (or anyone) would be good soaked in Jack Daniels, but this cake is really delicious, rich and perfect for the holidays.
Once while we were all still living at home in Nashville, we found one of these drunk cakes in our pantry several months into a new year. This was quite possible because the always overcrowded pantry could conceal any manner of treasure (or terror). The pantry was so full of food and other items (that didn’t seem to fit anywhere else) that you could search for what you desired and another something could fall out… like the time Henry went to the pantry searching for something on a high shelf and a huge can of raw honey Daddy used in his tea crowned him right over the head and the honey anointing ran down to the ‘skirts of his garments.’
(Notice the grip on my face in the pic above. You will see the same grip on Mama’s face when she is measuring flour a little farther up. This grip is essential to completing any task. Toni and Henry also use this grip, though Toni will not admit it just as she won’t admit we have the same nose.)
So we found this cake which had been stored away for months and we laughed while mama wondered how it had escaped her (as though she didn’t know what a thicket that pantry was). We looked at the cake and each other all the while knowing what we’d do. We had no choice but to open and try this old drunk of a cake. We would not be Belin’s if we didn’t try to eat it!
Mama unfolded the foil first and then held up the cake still wrapped in plastic wrap and looked through for I’m not sure what. We could already smell the Jack Daniels. This had to be a good sign. Then she peeled off the cellophane to reveal a cake that looked no different from the others we had eaten during the previous holiday season. I was already holding the serrated edge knife deemed by Mama to be the only suitable knife with which to cut such a cake and any other would "butcher" the cake thereby rendering it inedible. I passed the serrated edge knife to mama. She cut into it and gave the so-far-so-good look (experienced bakers know how a cake is liable to be by the way it cuts). She looked at the slice and broke off a corner of this precious end piece. There were only two ends on this loaf cake and they had absorbed the most Jack Daniels so whomever got the ends got the happiest. Of course, I always got an end since Henry hates nuts and Toni doesn’t eat raisins they were not in the competition.
Well, the cake was fine though a little drier than at it’s peak. But, it taught us the value of Jack Daniels and sugar: if you pour enough in, you’ll last longer.
My parents are strong and vibrant and we are blessed and I’ve no doubt that Mama could have pulled it off without me. But, baking those cakes with her reminded me that at some point we all have to pick up traditions from older ones so the younger ones will be situated in their powerful history and gain strength there.
In a few weeks, we’ll open a cake and cut into it. I’m thinking Mama will remember Birda. ‘Bootsie,’ Mama’s sister Shirley has already requested one. I know this means that Mama will bake cakes for the rest of her family too. I’ll help. It’s a long process but traditions are not made quickly.